Sam Taylor.

A recent health crisis that called for a weekend away from the hustle and bustle of daily life led to a serendipitous discovery on the outskirts of Whangarei.
 

I had been playing with the idea of looking at some of the wonderful farmstays that are available on lifestyle blocks around the region for some time when I came across Riverdale Farm. Their website promises “truly memorable stays with a French country feel” – and having lived in France for nearly 10 years I was curious to see just how you married French country and New Zealand countryside. 

So when I was hit with a spectacularly nasty throat infection recently and forced to take some time off, it seemed the perfect opportunity to combine a day or two of R and R with a bit of research.

All of which is how, on ANZAC day having entrusted the Great Urban Ark and kids to The Man of The House’s sister, TMOTH and I found ourselves making our way through driving rain to  Kokopu.  

Having reassured the sister in question that the kids would look after themselves and that the ducks, chooks, dogs, and cats would be no problem, I was trying to reassure myself of the same and find Knight Road at the same time. Which is why I possibly gave anybody driving behind me a heart attack when I suddenly turned right – I don’t actually know if there was anyone behind me, I was too busy trying to explain to  TMOTH why simply doing a u-turn and coming back was not an option.  Although he did eventually let go of the seatbelt but I noticed he insisted on driving for the rest of the weekend.

In 2001 Sam and Richard Taylor moved to Riverdale and built the house to plans they brought in from overseas. “I had given a really detailed brief to an architect and he gave us back what was essentially a long rectangle with attached pergola so we went on the net and found our own plans and gave them to a draughtsman here,” Sam said over a cup of tea. 

After moving into the house Sam set about launching her Bed and Breakfast dream. Furnished in a romantic French style, the Riverview room is located in a private wing within the farmhouse.  It has its own private bathroom with hairdryer and shaver points, power shower and deliciously hot water – which was most welcome after the day’s drive through the cold. Thick, thirsty towels are warming on heated rails and gorgeous toiletries are available and left me wondering for a moment if I wasn’t in an upmarket Auckland hotel. A private guest lounge apparently has a  crackling  open fire, TV, DVD and stereo,  but the minute I saw the extensive floor to ceiling bookcase I didn’t notice anything else.  At one point TMOTH muttered something about there not being room in our house for a replica but I managed to ignore him. 

“I think I unconsciously market to English visitors because I’m English,” she said with a grin. 

Grapevines, fruit trees and swathes of lavender surround the Farmhouse while the kitchen and dining room looks out over beautiful French style raised potager gardens filled with herbs and vegetables, and edged with lambs ear and icy white roses. As far as the eye can see, is green – with the occasional cow or sheep – and it’s easy to forget you are less than half an hour from Whangarei. 

We spent the afternoon exploring the countryside returning back to Riverdale to share dinner with Sam.  While breakfast is included in the price of the stay, dinner is an optional extra – and one both TMOTH and I heartily recommend. For $40 per person you will be hard pressed to find a setting, a hostess or a meal as excellent anywhere.  We were treated to roast beef with fresh vegetables, Yorkshire pudding, and gravy, followed by a homemade lemon crème, and finally cheese and marinated figs – all accompanied by wine.  My only worry was TMOTH might suddenly start expecting food like that at home – which would mean taking Sam home with us.  Sam joined us in the formal dining room and to say we felt very privileged to be there is an understatement. 

Breakfast Sunday morning was long and luxurious – and it’s hard to know what was better : the home made muesli or the home made cherry preserves. Or the scrambled eggs with freshly snipped herbs. The rain had retreated and we were able to wander around the farm a bit after breakfast – and while we didn’t venture along the sides of the river we did explore the small olive grove, enjoyed naming the fruit trees (we town dwellers are easily distracted by things like fruit trees) and even helped Sam move some stock.  Although I do suspect we were more hindrance than help on this latter as one steer was so unsure of these two strangers, it took us half an hour to get him to come through the gate!

With some regret we tore ourselves away but not without first telling Sam what a wonderful experience it had been and just how much we had loved our stay.  In what we have now come to understand is typical Sam style, she smiled first at us then at her home and said very quietly.